Install Temporary Deck Supports and Deck Beam
Use zip ties and hot glue dots where needed to attach the temporary Deck Supports. DO NOT GLUE THESE IN PERMANENTLY.
Also use zip ties and to hold in place the deck beam. Make sue it is vertical and orientated properly. Reinforce the inside of the Deck beam with 1/2” fillets and tape with 6oz fiberglass tape. Assemble and glue in the “Mast Fill” 1-6 pieces at the center of the Deck beam. This will take the compression of the mast so do not be stingy on the use of thickened epoxy and fiberglass in this area. You want this to be the strongest part of the boat. Reinforce where the deck beam attaches to the hull panels, sweep a 1” fillet and use two layers of 6oz tape overlapping onto the panels a minimum of 2”. You will have a chance to reinforce the outside of this beam structure in a later step when the boat is upside down.
Once the tube is trimmed and sanded epoxy it into the boat leaving roughly an extra inch of tube protruding from the bow and internal bulkhead. Apply generous fillets and two layers of fiberglass tape at all intersections including along its length at the deck stringer.
Glue in a G10 fiberglass tube into the bow as shown. The tube should have a inside diameter of 1/2” and a minimum wall thickness of 1/16”. This will be for lashing on a dolphin striker which is a spectra line that supports the loads onto the end of the bowsprit when it is fully extended. It is best to drill an oversize hole for this which will be backfilled with epoxy with cabosil thickener. If this hole breaches the inside of the bow floatation tank, apply a nice fillet and a layer of glass over the tube from the inside. Once the epoxy sets up then trim off the excess tube ends flush to the hull.
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Kurt Gauss wrote: Oct 11, 2023
As per the instructions, I just finished making my own bow sprit tube as the G10 at 48", when I only needed 22 or so inches, was too dear. I followed the instructions to the letter and was able during the laminations to "wring-out" the glass in the direction of the wrap starting in the center and spiraling down to the ends with my hand squeezing off any extra resin, removing trapped air and really getting the glass to be tightly wound. I used a clear PVC air extraction tube that measured a perfect 2.5" (OD) as the mandrel.